Day Nine: L’Anse-au-Clair

This morning dawned frosty and a little cloudy.

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We decided to take a walk around Mary’s Harbour before continuing our journey. It is still a busy fishing port and very picturesque, nestled in the shores of a salmon river.

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The drive started out, once again, smoothly on pavement. I had understood that the entire route from Mary’s Harbour to L’Anse-au-Clair was now paved. I was wrong… gravel deteriorated to deep scattered potholes, with sporadic sections of blessed pavement.

Fortunately the view was lovely, and the terrain continually changing. We drove up steep hills and into deep valleys. The trees became shorter and more sparse.

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At one point we stopped to climb one of the hills. The view was spectacular – hills in every direction, and the island of Newfoundland right in front of us.

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The ground was an array of colour – mosses of every shape and size, low lying plants, rocks, and lichen.

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After today’s drive, I now understand why Labrador is called The Big Land. Its vastness is unimaginable and the variety of its terrain is unmatched.

It rained most of the afternoon so we didn’t stop much. But we did pause at L’Anse-Amour to see the lighthouse (still active and the tallest in the Maritimes) and a burial mound dating back 7500 years!

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We also learned that the Basque fishermen used to sail here every year for whaling in the 1500’s. It’s a land with a long history.

Tonight is our last night in Labrador and on the Trans-Labrador Highway. We handed in our satellite phone (thankfully we didn’t need it). We’ve certainly had some memorable experiences.

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And tomorrow we head to Blanc Sablon, Quebec to take the ferry across to St. Barbe, Newfoundland. I’m not fond of ferries so I’m hoping for smooth seas and an easy crossing!

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